Essential Fly Fishing Gear for Beginners: A Guide from Olympic Fly Fishers of Edmonds

What to buy, what to skip, and how to get started with the right equipment — plus trusted recommendations from experienced Pacific Northwest anglers.

It’s easy to be overwhelmed by the countless options available when you’re comparing fly fishing equipment, especially when you’re just starting out. Terms for various items also seem to conflict with one another. For example, an 8-weight rod is a "stronger" rod than a 3-weight, but a 3X leader is stronger than an 8X leader. And just to make things more confusing, a size 8 hook is larger than a size 16.

The purpose of this guide is to simplify your introduction to fly fishing gear. We’ll explain the basics, highlight trusted brands and products, and help you make informed decisions about what you need to get started (and what you don’t).

Explore the individual sections here or keep scrolling to dive in:

Included throughout, you’ll find direct advice from longtime OFF member and Membership Chair Bob Chaffee. For years, Bob has given new members an abbreviated checklist of the gear you’ll find detailed here. His years on the water have saved many newcomers a lot of money, helping them land their first fish (and many more after that), faster and safer.

Whether you’re planning to fish streams, rivers, lakes, or ponds, this guide is designed with you in mind. It offers the basics: what you really need to start fly fishing. And that brings us to the most important items first… your rig.

01.

Rod & Reel

Your rod and reel form the foundation of your fly fishing setup. The rod determines how your line is cast and how much control you have over your fly, while the reel stores your line and helps manage larger fish. Most new anglers benefit from starting with a moderate-weight rod that can handle a variety of fishing conditions.

"I believe that a 5wt, 9-foot rod is the best all-around rod for trout fishing."

– Bob Chaffee, Membership Chair

Ask any of the experienced fishers in our club and they’ll tell you the same thing. A 5-weight, 9-foot rod is widely regarded as the best all-purpose fly rod for trout here in the Pacific Northwest and throughout the world. Why? It offers the perfect balance of control and feel. This setup allows you to land the fish quickly – ideal for its survival – while enjoying the fight that brings us back to the water again and again.

That said, if you plan to fish mostly lakes, a 10-foot rod might offer you slightly better line control and easier mending.

Graphite fly rod with anodized aluminum reel seat and red thread wraps. A durable, lightweight choice for beginner and experienced anglers alike, ideal for trout fishing in Washington's rivers and lakes.

Rod Construction and Materials

Fly rods are typically made from one of three materials:

Graphite (carbon fiber): The most common material used today. It’s lightweight, sensitive, and available in a range of actions (fast, medium, slow). Graphite rods are highly responsive, making them great for long casts, windy conditions, and larger waters. Most beginner-friendly rods from Orvis, Redington, and Echo are graphite-based.

Fiberglass: More flexible and slower action than graphite, fiberglass rods offer a smooth, forgiving feel. Ideal for small streams and short-range casting where delicacy matters. They’re also incredibly durable, making them popular with beginners and nostalgic anglers alike.

Bamboo: Classic, handcrafted, and often expensive. Bamboo rods have a loyal following among traditionalists and collectors. They offer smooth action but require more maintenance and care.

Rod Action and Performance

Fast-action rods are stiffer and bend mostly at the tip. They're great for long-distance casting, windy conditions, and larger flies.

Medium-action rods offer a balance between distance and finesse — ideal for beginners.

Slow-action rods bend throughout the rod and are better suited for small streams and delicate presentations.

We Recommend: When you’re just starting out, a graphite rod is the best all-around choice due to its blend of power, accuracy, and affordability. Look for a rod that matches the environment you plan to fish most often. A medium-action, graphite 5wt rod is an excellent all-around tool for Washington's lakes and rivers.

Reel Construction and Drag Systems

Fly reels are typically machined from aluminum or made from die-cast metal. The type you choose may depend on whether you plan to fish the Sound or just stick to lakes and rivers initially.

Machined aluminum reels are lightweight, durable, and resistant to corrosion — ideal for both freshwater and saltwater use. They’re more expensive but worth the investment if you plan to fish often or are interested in jumping from a river to a lake to the Puget Sound and back again.

Die-cast reels are more affordable and fine for freshwater fishing. But they’re generally less durable and not suited for saltwater environments.

Drag Systems

The drag system controls how much resistance a fish feels when it pulls against your line. It acts as a braking system to help prevent the line from snapping and gives you control during a fight. This is especially important when targeting larger or more powerful fish.

As the Orvis Learning Center explains, a reliable drag system can make the difference between landing a trophy fish and losing it during a run (Orvis Learning Center, 2023)[1].

There are two types of construction:

Click-and-pawl: A simple, classic system. Lightweight and easy to maintain, it’s best for smaller fish.
Disc drag: Offers more stopping power and smoother resistance. A must for larger trout, bass, or saltwater species. Most modern beginner reels use disc drag systems because they’re versatile and reliable.

Fly reel drag adjustment shown in detail. Releasing the drag after each use helps preserve performance and prevents long-term damage to the drag system.

Don’t Just Set the Drag, Learn to Manage It

Even with a great drag system, beginners often struggle with what’s called “line drag.” This is when currents pull on your fly line and cause your fly to move unnaturally. The team at Fly Fisherman magazine suggests that learning to create slack in your line is one of the most important skills for a natural presentation (Fly Fisherman, 2023)[2].

Try techniques like:

The “S” cast – adds side-to-side slack in the line
The dump cast – drops extra line near the fly
The reach cast – positions your line upstream of the fly to reduce tension

Each of these helps your fly drift more naturally, especially in moving water — which is often the key to fooling trout.

Pro Tip: Release the Drag After Fishing

Club member Dennis Potter recommends fully releasing the drag on your fly reel before storage. Keeping the drag engaged can compress the drag washers—especially in reels with cork components—leading to reduced performance and a "sticky" drag over time.

This degradation can compromise your reel's smoothness and reliability when fighting fish. Backing off the drag preserves the integrity of the drag system and extends the lifespan of your reel.

“The trick is to remember to release the drag when you’re done fishing for the day. Under constant pressure, the compressed cork or drag system materials of your reel lose the qualities they were designed for. It's akin to flossing… not hard to understand but easy to forget or let slide.” – Dennis Potter, Club Member

Discussions among experienced anglers on forums like Microskiff echo Dennis’s advice—and reveal a few added considerations. One guide noted that drag systems can degrade even if the reel sits unused with the drag left tight, which makes this habit just as important for occasional anglers.

One of only two known to exist, this Powell Legacy bamboo fly rod was built on a Walton Powell Tonkin cane blank and wrapped in chestnut and red silk. Finished by Jim Clarkson in 1995, the 8'4" 5-weight rod features nickel silver ferrules, a Madrone wood reel seat spacer, and a flapping hook keeper. This heirloom-quality rod helped support Olympic Fly Fishers of Edmonds’ conservation fundraiser in 2024. (Serial #0014-94)

Another contributor pointed out that while cork drag washers are the most sensitive, some synthetic materials (like carbon fiber or Rulon) can also develop memory or uneven wear over time if stored under pressure.

In several cases, the only fix required sending the reel in for service, since damage to the drag system isn’t always something an angler can repair at home (Microskiff Forum, 2019)[3].

Choosing a Rod and Reel Combo

Complete rod/reel outfits are often the best value for new anglers or experienced anglers looking to pick up a spare rig… so pretty much everybody. For $200 to $400, you can buy a complete kit that includes rod, reel, fly line, and backing — all balanced and ready to fish.

For beginners, this is one of the most cost-effective and frustration-free ways to get started.

These starter combos are frequently recommended in product roundups from industry leaders like Fly Fisherman Magazine for their ease of use and overall value (Fly Fisherman Magazine, 2024)[4].

Trusted brands that offer beginner-friendly outfits include:

Orvis (Clearwater Outfit)
Redington (Field Kit, Path Combo)
Echo (Base Kit, Lift Kit)

Local shops like Avid Angler in Lake Forest Park and Pacific Fly Fishers in Mill Creek are great places to start. Ask questions, test gear, and get set up with something that will work best for you and where you plan to fish most (…or at least most right away).

Pro Tip: Protect your gear investment with rod leashes

It doesn’t matter if you’re fishing from a pontoon or wading in swift water, accidents happen. A leash keeps your rod securely tethered so it doesn’t drift off or sink to the bottom of a lake if dropped or knocked overboard.

Most rod leashes are made from coiled polyurethane, stretchable nylon, or bungee-style cord. Many often feature corrosion-resistant clips or Velcro wraps at each end. Some models are retractable or feature quick-release connectors for added convenience. Lightweight designs won’t interfere with your casting, and many are compact enough to stash when not in use.

Several OFF members have learned the value of a leash the hard way. It’s easier to do than you think, especially while landing fish, reaching for gear, or balancing oars.

A good leash gives you the freedom to focus on the fish without worrying about your rod taking off on its own. They’re especially helpful in stillwater or while fishing on Puget Sound, but worth considering anywhere you risk losing your rod to a current or the depths.

“There are pros and cons to a rod leash. The pros being that you are unlikely to drop your rod overboard. The cons being that it is cumbersome to cast and can be annoying to deal with the cord getting in the way. With even a moderately priced fly rod, reel, and line costing around $400, I’ll put up with the inconvenience.”

– Bill Lundin, Club Member

02.

Fly Line, Backing, Leader & Tippet

The fly line system is one of the most unique and important aspects of fly fishing. Assembling it properly can also be one of the most confusing and frustrating experiences for new fly fishers.

Unlike conventional fishing, where the weight of the lure carries the line out, fly casting relies on the weight and design of the line itself to deliver the fly. A well-matched fly line, backing, leader, and tippet allow for smooth casting, accurate presentations, and effective hookups — all essential for your success on the water.

Fly Line: Types, Colors, and How They Work

Fly lines come in a range of weights, tapers, and sink rates. Each is suited to specific types of water and the flies you’re hoping to catch something with.

Weight (wt)

Corresponds to the rod it’s matched with. A 5wt fly line pairs with a 5wt rod — the most common setup for trout fishing.

Taper

The shape of the line affects how energy is transferred during your cast.

Weight Forward (WF): The most common taper, with more mass toward the front of the line. Great for beginners because it loads the rod easily and casts well at short to medium distances.

Double Taper (DT): Symmetrical and good for roll casting or delicate presentations — but less versatile.

Level Line: Rarely used; no taper means less control and poor casting performance.

Floating fly line in a high-visibility neon yellow. Ideal for dry fly presentations, beginner casting, and easy tracking across calm or rippled water.

Sink Rate

Determines how the line behaves in the water.

Floating (F): The entire line stays on the surface — ideal for dry flies, nymphs, and even streamers in shallow water.

🔹 Common color: light shades like florescent green, orange, or ivory for visibility

Intermediate (I): Sinks slowly (1.5 to 2 inches per second) — good for fishing subsurface in lakes or slow rivers.

🔹 Common color: clear, light blue, or translucent green for stealth

Sink Tip / Full Sink: Sections or the entire line sink at various rates. Useful for deep-water streamers or stillwater fishing.

🔹 Common color: black, dark brown, olive, or dual colored with a dark tip and brighter running line

We Recommend: A 5wt Weight Forward Floating (WF-F) line is the best all-around choice. It’s easy to cast, versatile across water types, and ideal for trout fishing in Washington’s rivers and lakes.

This exact recommendation is echoed by the Orvis Learning Center, which calls WF floating lines ‘the go-to choice for most freshwater situations due to their simplicity and range’ (Orvis Fly Fishing Learning Center, 2023)[5].

Fly Line Backing: What It Does and Why It Matters

Backing is the line that goes onto the reel first, before the fly line. It serves two purposes:

Extends your reach: If a large fish makes a long run, the backing gives you additional line beyond your fly line.
Fills out the spool: Without backing, your fly line would wind onto the narrow part of the reel, requiring more turns to retrieve. Backing fills the spool to a larger diameter, making line pickup faster and more efficient.

Full sinking fly line spooled on a large arbor reel. Designed for deeper lake and stillwater fishing when targeting fish holding low in the water column.

A standard trout setup uses about 100 yards of 20lb Dacron backing. Most fly shops will spool the backing and fly line for you when you purchase a reel — again, a helpful service for beginners and experienced folks alike.

Leaders and Tippet: How They Work Together

A leader is the clear section of tapered line that connects your fly line to the fly. It’s typically 7.5 to 9 feet long and tapers from a thick butt section (which turns the fly over) down to a fine point.

Tippet is the final, often interchangeable section of line tied to the end of the leader. It allows you to extend the life of your leader by replacing only the tip section when it gets short, nicked, or too thick for your fly.

Tippets and leaders are sized by an “X” rating — the higher the number, the thinner and lighter the line:

For example, 3X is stronger and thicker than 5X.

Common trout setups use 4X to 6X depending on the fly size and water clarity:
- 3X to 4X for larger flies (sizes 8 to 12)
- 5X to 6X for small dries (sizes 16 to 22) or spooky fish in clear water

Here’s an easy way to determine which size tippet will work best for the fly you’re using: Fly size ÷ 3 ≈ Tippet X size. So then a size 12 fly pairs well with 4X tippet.

Leader + Tippet Length

A standard trout setup is usually 9 feet total. This means you’ll use a 7.5 ft leader with 18 inches of tippet. You can adjust this based on conditions:

Longer leaders (9 to 12 feet) for clear water and wary fish

Shorter leaders (6 to 7.5 feet) for windy conditions or tight casting spaces

RIO Powerflex tapered leaders in standard trout sizes including 1X, 2X, 3X, and 4X — ideal for fly fishing across a variety of conditions and fly sizes.

Fluorocarbon vs. Nylon

Both leaders and tippet come in nylon or fluorocarbon:

Nylon: More supple and easier to knot. Floats better. Great for dry flies and general use.

Fluorocarbon: Denser, sinks faster, and is nearly invisible in water. Better for nymphs and streamers, but more expensive.

Many of our folks carry both and match them to the situation. Over time, you’ll develop preferences based on the flies you fish most often.

“A word of wisdom: ask for advice from a knowledgeable person before forking out money.” – Bob Chaffee

Pro Tips: Troubleshooting Your Fly Line Setup

Many beginners struggle with casting and assume the issue is their technique. In reality, casting problems are often caused by simple setup issues or mismatched gear. Before you get frustrated, take a few moments to check the following:

Line-rod weight mismatch: Your fly line should match your rod’s weight rating. For example, a 5wt rod works best with a 5wt line. Some beginners intentionally “overline” (like pairing a 6wt line with a 5wt rod) to help the rod load more easily at short distances, but too much mismatch can make your cast feel sluggish or erratic.

Too much or too little line out: Most fly rods are designed to cast best with 25 to 35 feet of line outside the rod tip. If you only have a few feet out, the rod won’t flex properly. Let a bit more line out and you may see an instant improvement.

Old or dirty fly line: Fly line that’s cracked or dirty can stick in the guides and reduce casting distance. Clean your line regularly, and plan to replace it every couple of seasons — especially if you fish often or store it on the reel all winter.

Leader too long or too short: A 9-foot leader is standard. If it’s much longer, your energy transfer can die before the fly turns over. Try shortening to 7.5 feet if you’re struggling to complete your cast.

Line memory or tangles: Coiled line right off the reel can create frustrating tangles and knots. Stretch your fly line before your first cast of the day by pulling 10–15 feet off the reel and gently running it between your hands with light pressure. Repeat a couple of times to remove coils and help your line shoot more cleanly through the guides.

Fly fishing tippet spools in a rotating dispenser. Includes common sizes (1X through 5X) used to match leader strength and fly size when targeting trout.

As the folks at Orvis explain: “Many casting problems are actually rigging problems in disguise. If your fly line, leader, and tippet are not balanced and matched to your rod, even short casts can be difficult. But with a well-balanced rig, casting becomes much easier and more enjoyable.” (Orvis Fly Fishing Learning Center, 2023)[5].

03.

Waders & Boots

Waders and boots are essential when you want to access deep or cold water safely and comfortably. Whether you're wading in a small stream, standing waist-deep in a river, or launching a float tube in a stillwater lake, gear that is correctly chosen and sized makes all the difference in warmth, mobility, and safety.

Olympic Fly Fishers of Edmonds member Dennis Potter fly fishing nearshore in the Puget Sound. Waders and boots are essential for winter comfort and safety in the cold waters of Washington’s saltwater fisheries.

Types of Waders and Their Applications

There are three main types of waders, each suited to different water types and fishing conditions:

Hip Waders: Extend from foot to mid-thigh. Lightweight and breathable, they’re a good choice for shallow streams or creeks where you won’t encounter much depth. Easy to get on and off but limited in range.

Waist-High (Pant) Waders: Look like waterproof pants. Great for medium-depth water, lake shores, and gentle river entries. More mobile and cooler than chest waders, especially in summer.

Chest Waders: The most versatile and protective option. They allow you to wade deeper and are especially useful when navigating slippery, uneven terrain or when float tubing. Chest waders with adjustable suspenders can double as waist-highs on warmer days.

We Recommend: breathable stocking-foot chest waders offer the best mix of comfort, safety, and adaptability — especially for Washington’s variable climate. Depending on the time of year and water temps you plan on fishing in, there are a few other variables to consider.

Wader Materials, Fit, and Durability

Modern waders are typically made from:

Breathable multilayer fabrics (like Gore-Tex or proprietary membranes): Lightweight, comfortable, and allow moisture to escape while keeping water out. Most popular choice among experienced anglers.

Neoprene (3mm to 5mm): Offers excellent insulation in cold water but less breathable and bulkier to move in.

PVC or rubber: Heavy and inexpensive, but not breathable. Often used in budget waders and not ideal for long wear.

Fit Tips

Wader sizing is based on chest, inseam, and shoe size. Choose a fit that leaves room for layering underneath but avoid excessive bagginess. Too much loose fabric can restrict movement or create drag in current.

Always try them on with base layers if possible then bend at the knees and try to pick something up off the floor. Too tight? Go another size up. Find yourself pulling them back down or rearranging large sections of material after you stand up? Maybe size down one.

Durability Considerations:

Frequent fishing (20+ days/year): Expect to replace budget waders every 2 to 3 seasons; premium waders can last 5+ years with care. That said, even budget waders are lasting long now with the durability of modern materials. You don’t have to spend a whole lot.

Occasional fishing: Budget gear may last 4 to 7 years, especially if used in less abrasive environments like lakes or sandy-bottomed rivers. There are also a few other ways to extend their life…

Maintenance Tips:

Dry waders thoroughly inside and out after every trip.
Rinse after saltwater use or if exposed to silt and grime.
Hang by the braces (suspenders) in a ventilated space — don’t fold or leave in a hot vehicle.
Patch small leaks with Aquaseal.

We Recommend: Zippered-Front Waders (...especially if you like coffee). The real hero of cold mornings isn’t a Thermos full of hot coffee. It’s waders with a front zipper. Zippered waders are a club favorite for their convenience, especially when layered up during chilly starts or spending long hours on the water.

Why we love them:

Super easy to get on and off (especially with layers underneath).
Great for quick ventilation if you’re hiking or moving around a lot.
Makes bathroom breaks far less of a production.

Zippered-front waders come with heavy-duty waterproof zippers that are built to last, as long as you rinse them clean and keep them lubricated with zipper wax or silicone. Brands like Simms and Orvis make excellent zippered models at the mid-to-premium price point.

Wading Boots: Types, Fit, and Care

Wading boots provide the grip and support needed to safely move through slick riverbeds and rocky lake bottoms. There are two main sole types:

Felt Soles: Excellent traction on wet rocks and riverbeds. However, felt can carry invasive species and is banned in some regions. Check regulations before you buy. If they’re legal where you plan on fishing, we highly recommend them. They can mean the difference between a fun day on the river and a broken ankle, banged up knee, or best-case scenario: one swim after the next.

Rubber Soles: More durable and easier to clean between trips. Often paired with metal studs for improved traction. A better choice for mixed terrain or if you fish across state lines.

Wading boots with rubber soles and aggressive tread. Recommended for traction in lakes and estuary settings like the Puget Sound. Cleats can be added for extra grip.

Stocking-foot vs. Boot-foot Waders

Stocking-foot waders require separate boots, offering better support and flexibility. Preferred by most experienced anglers.

Boot-foot waders have integrated boots. Easier to slip on and off, but heavier and less supportive. Plus, with this type, you’ll probably need one set of waders for lakes or the Puget Sound, and another for rivers to ensure traction on slick, algae-covered riverbeds.

Cost Expectations

A reliable pair of boots typically costs:

Budget: $80 to $120
Midrange: $150 to $200
Premium: $250+

Durability

Soles and uppers degrade over time, especially with frequent use. Expect to replace wading boots every 2 to 4 years depending on terrain and wear.

Wading Boot Fit Tips

Club members recommend sizing up at least one size from your regular shoe size to accommodate the neoprene booties in stocking-foot waders. Ask longtime club member and our resident FFI Certified Casting Instructor Jim Black, and he may even suggest going up two full sizes.

Extra sizing is most common during winter, when you’re likely wearing several insulating layers — including multiple pairs of wool socks — underneath your waders. Always try boots on while wearing your waders and walk around before committing to keep them. Comfort and fit matter more than the number on the box.

Maintenance Tips:

Rinse after every use, especially in saltwater.
Loosen laces and let boots dry fully before storing.
Avoid long-term compression or heat exposure.

Club members often stress that boot fit and grip are just as important to safety as the waders themselves — especially when navigating mossy riverbeds or steep embankments.

Felt-soled fly fishing boots provide superior grip on slick rocks in river environments. Often favored for wading the rivers of the Pacific Northwest in combination with a wading staff.

Felt Soles: Are They Allowed in Washington?

Felt-soled boots give you excellent grip on slick river rocks — which is why so many anglers love them. But they’ve also raised concerns about spreading invasive species like rock snot (Didymo), because the felt can trap tiny organisms that travel from one water body to another.

So, are they legal in Washington? Yes — as of now, felt soles are still allowed throughout the state. That said, regulations can change, so it’s always a good idea to check the latest rules with the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife (WDFW) before heading out.

If you’re going to use felt, be smart about it:

Clean them thoroughly with hot water and a stiff brush after each use.
Dry them completely for at least 48 hours between trips — most aquatic hitchhikers can’t survive that long out of water.
Disinfect them if you’re fishing in multiple waters in one weekend.
And of course, don’t share boots between anglers unless they’re properly cleaned.

These steps aren’t just about gear hygiene — they’re a small but important part of conservation, and something we take very seriously. Preventing the spread of invasive species helps protect the waters we love for future generations of anglers.

Some club members prefer rubber-soled boots for this reason — they’re easier to clean and still provide good traction when paired with studs. Plus, a growing number of places outside Washington have banned felt altogether, so it’s something to keep in mind if you travel to fish.

04.

Float Tubes & Watercraft (for Lake Fishing)

Like many Washington fly fishing clubs on the western side of the mountains, our focus has traditionally been lakes. For this reason, we’ve encouraged our new members to invest in float tubes and other personal watercraft.

They open up a world of opportunity when you’re fishing stillwater. Watercraft allow you to reach spots that aren’t accessible from the bank and position yourself for better casting angles and presentations. This is especially beneficial when targeting cruising trout or working drop-offs and weed beds.

“The type that you purchase will depend upon which kind of fishing you will be doing, your budget, your storage space, and how you will transport that craft.”

– Bob Chaffee

If you're fishing stillwaters, a float tube can dramatically improve your access to productive water. Here’s a comparison chart to help you find the right fit.

Fins: The Engine of Your Float Tube

Fins are essential for propulsion and control when using a float tube. There are a few different styles:

Standard Strap-On Fins: Most common and affordable. Worn over wading boots. Easy to use but can sometimes slip or loosen.

Force Fins: Premium, curved design that offers powerful kicks with less fatigue. Often used by experienced stillwater anglers.

Full-Foot Fins (Snorkel-style): Rare in fly fishing. Only useful in warm water without boots — not recommended for typical Washington conditions.

Pro tip: Try your fins on with your wading boots before heading out. You want a snug fit with no chance of them slipping off mid-kick.

Oars and Rowing Mechanics

If you're planning to row instead of kick, or use a combination of both, pay close attention to how the boat is designed to accommodate oars.

Frameless Pontoon Boats often position the angler lower in the water. The oarlocks tend to sit closer to chest height, which can limit your range of motion and make it difficult to get a full stroke. Rowing may feel more cramped or inefficient, especially over longer distances.

Framed Pontoon Boats and Inflatable Rafts typically elevate the angler, which allows for a natural, complete oar stroke. These boats often feature adjustable footrests and oar positions, making them easier to row for anglers of different heights. This also improves leverage and control, which is especially useful in wind or when covering a lot of water.

This distinction is echoed in community-tested discussions among anglers. One detailed thread on the Washington Fly Fishing Forum highlights how framed pontoons are preferred for their superior rowing mechanics and comfort, while frameless pontoons can feel “low, inefficient, and harder to row over distance” (Washington Fly Fishing Forum, 2021)[6].

Club member Cole Simpson stands beside his framed Fish Cat pontoon boat — a popular choice for stillwater anglers who want stability and customizable rigging. In the background, another OFF member launches a frameless pontoon, ideal for lighter packing and easier transport.

Inflation: Pressure, Pumps, and Altitude Tips

Most personal watercraft require inflation between 2.5 and 3.6 PSI, depending on the make and model. Always refer to your specific manufacturer’s guidelines and use a pressure gauge to dial it in accurately. Underinflation can result in poor tracking or seam damage, while over-inflation stresses material and glue lines.

Pump Options

Hand Pumps: Reliable and easy to pack, though slower.
Foot Pumps: Hands-free and lightweight; often included with boats.
Electric Pumps: Fast and effortless but may not be accurate. Best used in combination with a manual pump for final tuning.

The Water Master inflatable raft is a high-end, packable boat favored for backcountry lakes and river drifts. In the background: club president Greg Sisson’s Irish setter, Hattie — pointing to a rising fish?

Altitude Awareness

If you're driving over mountain passes like Snoqualmie Pass, make sure to let air out of your pontoon or raft before you go. As you rise in elevation, air expands. In sealed bladders, this can cause overinflation or even bursting. A 5,000-foot elevation gain can increase internal pressure by up to 2.5 PSI.

Temperature Swings

Hot sun will also increase pressure. If you inflate early in the cool morning and the day heats up, your boat may become dangerously tight. On the flip side, inflating on a hot day and hitting cold water can make your boat go soft.

Setup and Inflation Best Practices

Inflate your boat at home early in the season to check for slow leaks or valve issues.
Don’t inflate until “rock-hard” — leave a bit of give to allow for temperature and altitude shifts.
Secure valves and inspect seams before every trip.
Use a repair kit to fix minor leaks — patch kits are essential gear.

Storage and Maintenance Tips

Let your boat dry completely before storage to prevent mildew.
If storing inflated, reduce to about 50% pressure and keep in a cool, dry, shaded space.
Don’t tightly fold or crease the fabric — roll loosely to protect seams.
Avoid storing in hot garages, attics, or car trunks where pressure can build unexpectedly.

Club members recommend rinsing your float tube or pontoon boat if used in silty or algae-filled waters to prevent grit buildup on valves and seams.

Trusted Brands

Club members have used a wide range of brands over the years. Those that seem to consistently rise to the top include:

Outcast
Watermaster
Sea Eagle
Classic Accessories
Buck’s Bags

05.

Safety Gear & Essentials

In our comprehensive article on safety, 10 Essential Fly Fishing Safety Tips from Olympic Fly Fishers of Edmonds, we covered a range of protective gear that no angler should overlook — whether you're on foot, in waders, or floating a lake. These core items help reduce your risk of injury, improve your visibility and balance, and prepare you for the unexpected.

To quickly summarize, you may want to consider taking the following safety gear on your next trip depending on where you plan on fishing:

Life Vest – Choose an inflatable or foam PFD that offers freedom of movement and includes pockets for gear or an integrated whistle. Required by law on most small watercraft.

Emergency Whistle – A loud whistle is critical for signaling others when voice won’t carry. It’s also legally required for float tubes, pontoon boats, and other personal watercraft here in Washington state.

Polarized Sunglasses – Protect your eyes from glare, UV rays, and stray hooks. Polarized lenses also improve visibility below the surface, helping you spot structure and fish.

Wading Staff – Especially helpful in rivers and rocky lake shorelines, a collapsible wading staff adds a third point of balance and helps test depth and footing before you commit.

06.

Nets: Catch & Release with Care

A good net isn’t just a tool for landing fish — it’s a key part of ethical angling. The right net helps reduce stress and injury to fish, making it easier to release them safely and successfully. At Olympic Fly Fishers of Edmonds, we emphasize conservation-minded gear choices, and nets are no exception.

Landing a fish quickly and gently is one of the best ways to support its survival after release. The right net makes that easier, especially when you're fishing in moving water, handling larger species, or simply want to avoid unnecessary harm.

Net Bag Materials

One of the most critical components of your net is the bag – specifically the materials it’s been constructed from. The reason being that not all net bags are created equal. Some materials are far gentler on fish than others.

Rubber or Rubber-Coated Mesh – The gold standard for catch-and-release. These nets reduce slime loss and scale damage, and fish are less likely to get tangled. Easier to clean and odor resistant. Recommended by most conservation organizations and fly fishing guides.

Soft Nylon Mesh – Lightweight and flexible but rougher on fish. May scrape slime and increase risk of fin damage. Best avoided if you’re releasing fish regularly.

Knotted Cord or Hard Nylon – Traditional and durable but not ideal for modern catch-and-release practices. Can tangle hooks and harm fish. Generally not recommended.

Closeup of a clear rubber mesh landing net. Rubberized nets are gentler on fish, reducing scale loss and protecting the slime layer — making them the conservation-minded choice for catch-and-release anglers.

Handle and Frame Materials

This is where you have a little more freedom to choose something that pairs with a budget or simply catches your eye.

Rubber – Affordable and lightweight. These landing nets come in a variety of colors and lengths. Many also include flotation material inside – a lifesaver when your first net ends up overboard.

Aluminum – Lightweight and durable. Great for boats or rougher conditions. Doesn’t absorb water, and frames hold their shape well over time. Some models even come with a hollow handle that doubles as a flask.

Wood – Attractive and classic, often used for hand nets. Lightweight and buoyant but may require care to prevent wear and warping.

Carbon Fiber/Composite – Premium option. Strong, extremely light, and corrosion-resistant — excellent for extended reach nets.

Net Size and Length

Fishing in a stream or from a boat? How far you'll need to reach for your fish will determine the length of your net.

Small/Short-Handled Nets (12” to 18") – Ideal for wading small streams where fish are modest in size and you’re able to simply bend down and scoop them up.

Medium Nets (18” to 24") – Versatile for stillwaters, rivers, and bank fishing. Fit most trout sizes and work well with float tubes.

Long-Handled Nets (36"+) – Best for boats, rafts, or netting larger fish at distance. The added reach helps avoid losing fish at the boat and prevents you from having to lean too far over the side – especially helpful in larger rafts and aluminum boats.

We recommend: Many of our club members regularly fish from float tubes or framed pontoon boats. Most use a medium-length net with a rubber bag for the best balance of portability, fish safety, and ease of use.

Conservation Tip

Minimize air exposure and always wet your net before landing a fish. Keep fish in the water when unhooking and cradle them gently if taking a photo. A good net makes all of this easier — for you and for the fish.

Bonus tip from OFF members: Dipping your net before you fish is also good luck — a small ritual that ensures many fish to the net that day.

07.

Other Must-Have Accessories

Most fly fishers you’ll run into are gadget nerds. The shinier, the better. And here’s a hard truth: if you’ve read this far, you’re one of us.

Fly fishing accessories make life on the water easier and more fun – whether it’s the latest pair of nippers special ordered through a local fly shop or a rod holder you custom-engineered yourself out of spare plywood and PVC. Small tools and extras make your day on the water smoother, safer, and more productive.

The following accessories are all worth having within reach:

Nippers – Compact cutters (similar to nail clippers) for trimming leader, tippet, and tag ends. A must-have tool on any lanyard or vest.

Hemostats or Pliers – Essential for safe hook removal and for pinching barbs. Locking versions allow hands-free operation while unhooking fish. They’re also useful for gauging depth by clipping one onto your fly to see how deep you're fishing in a lake.

Sunscreen and Insect Repellent – Protect yourself from sunburn and mosquitoes. Opt for mineral formulas with natural ingredients like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide that are safer for aquatic environments.

Strike Indicators – Assist in detecting subtle takes when fishing subsurface flies like nymphs. Available in foam, yarn, or air-filled styles.

Retractors or Zingers – Keep tools like nippers and hemostats on a retractable tether so they're always handy and less likely to be lost.

Rescue Knife – A compact, rust-resistant knife is smart to have in case you need to cut line, rope, or webbing in a pinch. Look for one that’s easy to open with one hand and won’t rust if it gets dunked in fresh water or salt.

Dry Fly Floatant – Essential for keeping dry flies riding high on the water. Options like Loon Aquel, Gink, and High N Dry are our top choices. These gels or powders help preserve a dry fly’s effectiveness by preventing waterlogging and improving floatation — especially useful when fishing bushy or hackled patterns.

Bottle Holder for Floatant – Keep your dry fly floatant easily accessible with a bottle holder that attaches to your vest or pack. This ensures that your floatant is always within reach and reduces the chance of losing it.

Microtrash Container – Fly fishing often results in small waste items like tippet clippings, used flies, or packaging. A small container, such as the Fishpond Microtrash Container, provides a convenient place to stash your trash until you get back to shore.

Fly fishing nippers on a retractor (or zinger) clipped to a vest. Keeps essential tools close at hand and secure — a smart upgrade that helps prevent tools from ending up in the drink.

Fly Box + Basic Fly Assortment

We saved the best for last! A compact fly box containing a variety of dry flies, nymphs, and streamers will prepare you for most conditions you'll encounter, especially when starting out. Beyond that, you can consult fellow club members, local fly shops, or our social media channels for seasonal recommendations.

Building a starter fly box with versatile, proven patterns can boost your confidence and success on the water. Like any collection, it’s something you can grow over time – especially if you learn to tie them yourself (which we highly recommend).

We Recommend: Stock your starter fly box with a few different color and size variations of these fundamental fly patterns:

Parachute Adams: A versatile dry fly that imitates various mayflies. Its parachute design enhances visibility and floatation, making it ideal for beginners.

Elk Hair Caddis: This buoyant dry fly mimics adult caddisflies and is effective in fast-moving waters.

Stimulator: An attractor dry fly that resembles stoneflies and caddisflies. Its high visibility and buoyancy make it suitable for use with dropper rigs.

Hare's Ear Nymph: A classic nymph pattern that imitates a wide range of aquatic insects. Its buggy appearance appeals to trout in various conditions.

Pheasant Tail Nymph: This slender nymph imitates mayfly nymphs and is effective in clear waters.

Prince Nymph: An attractor nymph with a flashy profile, useful in murky waters or when fish are less selective.

Beginner-friendly fly box featuring Pat’s Rubber Legs and weighted leech patterns — versatile, high-success patterns ideal for stillwater and river fishing in the Pacific Northwest.

Pat’s Rubber Legs: A large, leggy stonefly nymph imitation that’s easy to cast, highly visible, and effective year-round in Western rivers. It’s especially productive in faster water and during spring runoff.

Woolly Bugger: A versatile streamer that imitates leeches, baitfish, and other prey. Effective in various water conditions and for multiple species.

Zebra Midge: A simple yet effective midge pattern, particularly useful in tailwaters and during winter months.

San Juan Worm: An attractor pattern that mimics aquatic worms. It's especially effective after rainstorms or in muddy waters.

Egg Pattern: Imitates fish eggs and is particularly effective during spawning seasons.

These patterns are widely recommended for their effectiveness and ease of use, making them staples in a beginner's fly box. As you gain experience, you can expand your collection based on specific local hatches and personal preferences.

Final Thoughts

Fly fishing is a sport of lifelong learning, but the right gear can make your first experiences on the water much easier and a whole lot more fun. Stick to the basics, ask your fellow club members, and invest where it matters.

We hope this guide helps you start strong and fish confidently. Now let's go fishing!

“This is just a primer. Don’t be afraid to ask for help. It will help you make informed choices and save money.” – Bob Chaffee

Bonus Learning Resources for Beginners

Take advantage of the wealth of trusted online content from some of the best names in the sport. These resources offer everything from casting instruction to gear breakdowns, knot tying, and fishery-specific advice — all beginner-friendly and widely respected:

Orvis Learning Center – Hub of videos and articles covering casting, gear, entomology, and fly selection — great for total beginners and lifelong learners alike.

The New Fly Fisher – Beautifully produced TV episodes and tutorials focused on both technique and destinations, with a strong emphasis on education.

MidCurrent – Respected digital magazine with in-depth articles on gear, tactics, conservation, and fly fishing culture.

Fly Fishers International, Learning Center – Global nonprofit supporting fly fishing education and conservation, including online learning tools and certification programs.

Fly Fisherman Magazine – The industry’s leading publication, offering expert tips, gear reviews, and seasonal strategies in both print and online formats.

Olympic Fly Fishers membership chair Bob Chaffee (right) fly fishing in British Columbia. Fishing from boats allows access to deeper holding water but also requires some additional gear like full sink lines, long-handled nets, and a personal flotation device (PFD).

Fly Fishing with Ladin (YouTube) – A club favorite — low-key, friendly, and full of real-world fishing on waters you'll recognize, often right here in the Pacific Northwest.

We Recommend: Our members-only Google Forum is an excellent resource for assistance of any kind. While we might only offer general tips for distant fisheries like the Cobungra River in the Australian Alps, we've extensively fished waters throughout Washington and the Pacific Northwest and are happy to provide detailed guidance on local fisheries.

Still have questions?

Endnotes

Orvis Fly Fishing Learning Center, “Ask the Experts: How Do You Set Your Drag Before Fishing?,” Orvis, 2023. https://news.orvis.com/fly-fishing/ask-experts-set-drag-fishing
Fly Fisherman Magazine, “Handling Drag,” 2023. https://www.flyfisherman.com/editorial/handling-drag/460055
Microskiff Forum, “Cork Drags—What Happens If You Leave Them Tight?” October 23, 2019. https://www.microskiff.com/threads/cork-drags-what-happens-if-you-leave-them-tight.71694
Fly Fisherman Magazine, “A Shopper's Guide to the Best Fly-Fishing Rod-and-Reel Outfits for Beginners,” 2024. https://www.flyfisherman.com/editorial/flyfishing-rod-reel-outfits-beginners/489024
Orvis Fly Fishing Learning Center, “Fly Line Tips for Beginners,” Orvis, 2023. https://howtoflyfish.orvis.com/how-to-articles/trout-fishing-articles/fly-line-tips-for-beginners
Washington Fly Fishing Forum, “Inflatable Boat vs Framed One-Person Pontoon,” July 2021. https://www.washingtonflyfishing.com/threads/inflatable-boat-vs-framed-one-person-pontoon.164724